The same wanton disregard for the safety of themselves and others that is readily evident in their traffic etiquette seems to be the implied theme of Loi Kratong for most Thais. In actuality, Loi means to float and Kratong is an offering usually made of flowers and banana leaves that is “Loi”-ed down the river to appease the river spirits. Here it is probably a good idea to acknowledge that Thai Buddhism has built into it a seemingly unparalleled capacity for plurality. While at least 80% of the country is Buddhist, they frequently pray and make offerings to Buddhist saints as well as animist spirits. So this, one of the biggest festivals of the year actually has nothing to do, at least directly, with Buddhism.
At times the festival is extremely beautiful, simple and respectfullike when I visited a large wat on the river at night, while dozens of people were sending off their Kratongs. However, more often then not, the festival took a much more hectic, commodified and frankly, scary form. Both banks of the river were lined with folding tables, impromptu stores, for food, beer, hand-crafted kratongs and most notably, fireworks.
Chiang Mai the city does not organize any sort of professional fireworks display, but that being said, I imagine that more pure tonnage of explosives is sent off into the sky during this festival, than during your average city-sponsored Fourth of July display. For four days straight, an entire second without a whiz, pop or bang seems unsettling, as if something is missing, akin to the feeling of first setting foot on hard ground after a week at sea and finding yourself gently rocking with your own imaginary waves.
Now I love fireworks as much as the next person, so, not to be outdone, I found the wholesaler where all of the people with tables along the river buy their stock and bought what one of my friends called a disgusting amount of fireworks. With these, Me and Sai, the newest volunteer at my organization, set out to do out part in combatting silence.
Beyond the non-stop fireworks, true to its reputation, Loi Kratong was marked by hundreds of Kom Lois. The sky was filled with glowing orange stars, disconcertingly too close and to quickly moving. The result was truly beautiful. 1 2 3 4 5 6
